Climbing trip to Sjöända (Sweden) by public transport and bike

In the past we have tried to get to famous sport climbing crags using a new (to us) mode – ecopointing. This often led to frustration when the local infrastructure was much more car- than bike-friendly. So this time we thought of a destination, a route, where ecopointing would be more fun than car travel. Where ecopointing is not about overcoming obstacles, but about enjoying the beauty of change. So we cycled from Gothenborg to Stockholm, climbing on six crags along the way, such as Sjöända. Stunning, ca. 25m high main wall with slightly overhanging, crimpy, and technical climbing. Mostly 7b and harder, but some nice, easier routes can also be found. The side walls offer a bit shorter, vertical, partly slabby climbing in easier grades. It is located directly next to a beautiful lake where you can refresh yourself on a warm summer day. Perfect summer crag as the shades moves in during early afternoon.

What we loved about Sweden: “Allemansrätten”, “Fika” (coffee break) and the granite! Swimming in lakes twice a day (and not missing a shower in three weeks), cycling through marvellous nature, eating freshly picked berries in our porridge and sleeping in shelters, “badsplats” and the like, sometimes even with (dry) toilets – for free and in places you would not get to by car!

Climbing trip to Bohuslän (Sweden) by train and bike

Bohuslän, the Swedish Mecca of trad climbing, boasts the best granite between Lofoten and Chamonix, and is conveniently located right in the middle of these two. The Bohuslän crags range from beginnner-friendly to some of the hardest lines in Scandinavia. The crags are densely distributed throughout the region, which is easily reached by train. Bus transport is sparse and infrequent, so bringing a bike makes the trip a lot easier.