Not only does the Zillertal have a lot to offer in terms of sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and winter sports, there are also plenty of great boulder problems. Especially in the hot months, the bouldering areas in the higher altitudes, in the forests and directly by the river offer cool conditions. There are numerous spots both in the main valley and in the side valleys. The Sundergrund area is particularly idyllic, scattered across alpine meadows and right by the river with lovely swimming spots – both hardcore and beginners will find something here (FB 5a – 8b+, most boulders in the 6a – 6c range).
How to get there
We took the train from the Nuremberg area (Hersbruck) to Mayrhofen in the Zillertal. From there, we took the bus which stops directly at the campsite ‘Gasthaus in der Au’.
Hersbruck r. Pegnitz – Nuremberg // local transport, 14 min
Nuremberg – Munich // local transport, 1 h 34 min
Munich – Jenbach // EC, 1 h 25 min
Jenbach – Mayrhofen im Zillertal // local transport ‘Zillertalbahn’, 50 min
Mayrhofen im Zillertal – Zillergrund // Bus, 30 min (runs every half hour)
Some of us got on the train in Munich. From there it takes about 3 hours and only 3 changes. Travelling by bike through the Inn and Zillertal valleys is certainly worthwhile, too!
Where to stay
The ‘Gasthaus in der Au’ offers accommodation (currently only camping) and food (restaurant), has its own bus stop right outside the gate and is also the starting point for the approach to the Sundergrund bouldering area. Camping costs €10 per person per night. This makes the campsite unbeatable in terms of both location and price. If you don't want to camp, there are other guesthouses and holiday apartments in the Zillergrund, but they're a bit further away, so it might be worth bringing a bicycle.
How to reach the crag(s)
It couldn't be easier: a 30-minute walk along a wide forest path leads you to the main sector of the Sundergrund.
Tips
The nearest supermarket is in Mayrhofen (30 minutes by bus). At the campsite there is only food on the menu, no breakfast and no food to buy (not even bread). So we bought food for the whole stay in Mayrhofen on the way there (the train station, supermarkets and bus stop are all close to each other in Mayrhofen).
The region offers endless opportunities for rest days. There is also the Zillergrund bouldering area, sport climbing areas and several multi-pitches, as well as beautiful hikes, all within walking distance. Take the half-hourly bus or bike and you can explore even more!
We found that carrying our stuff and the crashpads worked quite well. Jony carried a backpack on the front and a large crashpad on the back, which worked well for the short walks. Franzi carried a large backpack on her back and a small crashpad in her hand. Nadja's crashpad (Petzl), however, was ideal as it had a large cavity where she could fit the entire contents of her backpack - two in one.
How to book the trip
Train tickets via DB or OEBB. Bus ticket directly on the bus.
About the author
Franzi, Jony and Nadja from Ecopoint Frankenjura
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