Ceüse is a legendary cliff in the southern French alps. Known all over the world for it’s perfect limestone, you can find more than 600 routs from 5a to 9b+. In summer you can climb just when the cliff get the shade, at about 2pm, the part that gets in the shade has grade from 6a to 9. The easier roots (5a and 6b) are more on the south/west and are more convenient in spring or autumn.
How to get there
You can easily access to Gap by train! Besides the direct train from Marseille (about 3h), there is Briançon (1h), Valence (1.5h), Grenoble (2.30h) and even a night train from Paris!
From Gap you can bike to Guerins pass (col des Guérins), where you find various accomodations. There are 20km to ride up the 640 high difference from Gap to le col des Guerins (about 2hours). On the way you can stop and have a swim in Pelleautier’s lake (better water in beginning of summer). The first part is a bit steep but once you reach “la Freissinouse” the rest is really nice. Here you find our cycle path:
Where to stay
You find accommodations at the Guérins pass: Maison de Ceuse: a Parking with toilets and showers for about 3 or 5 euros per person from 15 mai to 15 september, Camping des Guerins : 8 euros per person, La chèvrerie de Ceüse: cottage at the farm.
How to reach the crag(s)
You walk to the cliff starting from the accomodations from 45minuts to 1h15 depending of the sectors. The steep path starts from the pass, the less steep starts from the camping (or just above the camping if you are not staying there). To reach “Grande face” sector for “Inesperance” you can count about 1 hour.
We climbed Inesperance, which is an amazing multipitch of 4 routes which give access to Ceüse plateau. Even if it’s not common to multipitch in Ceüse, it’s totally worth it, for the climb as well as for the wilderness of the plateau once you get up there (which use to be a ski resort).
Tips
Food: Pizzeria le crux at the col des Guérins, Goat farm at “la chevrerie de Ceüse », Fruits or vegetables : a small shop in la Freissinouse (1hour bike, you can also hitch hike). The closest supermarkets in Gap (If you want local food go at le panier gapençais) or Veynes.
For rest days, we recommend to chill out with the thousand’s other climbers from the world at the col des Guérins, or have a swim at Pelleautier’s lake. If you feel like you want to bike a little, go and have a beer in the center of Gap or go at the river of Rabou or at Serre-Ponçon lake.
Other climbing: In the Devoluy, half a day bike ride there is Gillardes 400m multipitch, many roots, in the shade all morning, Pic de Bure 600m montain multipitch : « voie demaison » or « voyage au buristan ». Nearby Briançon (1 hour train) you can find many other clifs. Verdon (1 hour train to La brillanne Oraison than 60km ride) 300multipitch, amazing place, amazing rock.
How to book the trip
French Train platform sncf. Gap access by train with the bike : If you take a TER from Marseille or Briançon you don’t have to book for the bikes. If you take à TER from Valence or Grenoble you have to book for the bikes (free). If you take the night train from Paris you have to take a special ticket for the bike (or fold your bike in a bicycle bag). If you don’t want to bike, hitchhiking could also be an option especially in summer when there are so many climbers up there.
About the author
Denise Bonneville et Mathieu Azogué
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